There is a gray cat, with one lazy eye and both covered in cataracts, on the dining room table. It is not my cat, or my dining room, or my table: I have been married now for just over one month, and we are housesitting in Charleston. Grace objects – "
5 years ago, my brother killed himself. He took a rifle from under his bed, chambered a round, and pointed the barrel at his head. 5 years ago, was the first time I was ever forced to see that image in my head. Since then, it’s become routine. Laying
There's a book that has contagious spread around surfing circles – including my own – for the past 10 years. Barbarian Days is a memoir written by William Finnegan, which documents practically his entire life, through a sort of vessel of boardsport. A few years ago, before I set off
And I think he's right. In my [last letter] I talked about the struggles I have faced the last 2 years: Chasing performance, chasing fulfillment in approval, and generally ... chasing "ego hits." I thought a shared a pretty compelling story with you. And so did my
Something I've noticed recently is that the majority of road signs here in New Zealand are 'Give Way' signs — or what we, in the States, call a 'Yield.' Meaning, you do not have the right of way. That which is in flow, continues. And
